Crossing the Drake Passage

Wonderful! We had such calm seas and sunshine, it didn’t feel like the notorious Drake at all.albatross The weather forecast, however, was not that brilliant, which is why we didn’t sail by Cape Horn. There is a poem by the Chilean writer Sara Vial (link to the Spanish original: http://www.caphorniers.cl/images/placa1.jpg). Here is the English translation by Princeton University (http://libweb5.princeton.edu/visual_materials/maps/websites/pacific/magellan-strait/cape-horn.html):

I am the albatross that waits for you
at the end of the world.
I am the forgotten souls of dead mariners
who passed Cape Horn
from all the oceans of the earth.
But they did not die
in the furious waves.
Today they sail on my wings
toward eternity,
in the last crack
of Antarctic winds.

The German translation as on wikipedia (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kap_Hoorn#Literatur):
Ich bin der Albatros, der am Ende der Welt auf dich wartet.
Ich bin die vergessene Seele der toten Seeleute,
die zum Kap Hoorn segelten, von allen Meeren der Erde.
Aber sie sind nicht gestorben im Toben der Wellen,
denn jetzt fliegen sie auf meinen Schwingen für alle Zeit in die Ewigkeit,
wo am tiefsten Abgrund der antarktische Sturm heult.

We not only saw several species of albatrosses during the two-day trip, but also Cape Petrels, from below, sideways and above.cape petrel cape petrels

Giant Petrels came alongside, too. PetrelI might develop after all into a decent bird photographer, given time and practice with the right targets, somewhere south …

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Port Stanley

Yep, we are still on the Falkland Islands. Before we set sail towards South Georgia, there was Port Stanley waiting to be explored.Stanley

Here is a link to the wikipedia article. It is a small town with some charming features.tree Even if the street names might seem questionable. Everything is colourful, and often rather quirky.hedge yellow house

There are remnants of wildlife around.bones

One can also spot remnants of ships.wreck

Or technology from the ancient days.telephones

Everybody seems to drive an SUV.street And down at the harbour we spotted the real wildlife – a Rock Shag and a tern (could be a Southamerican Tern).shag and tern

Around Cape Pembroke

After leaving Carcass Island, Fram headed towards East Island overnight. For the map, please see here. She docked in Port Stanley, and we went on a bird watching excursion. A pleasingly small group of half a dozen passengers plus Expedition Team member John (his website is great) and two local guides, we set off in a minibus and were driven to the easternmost point of the island.BrianBrian, one of the local guides.Cape Pembroke He was full of fascinating stories and a fountain of bird knowledge. View from Cape Pembroke towards Port Stanley. The area saw a lot of fighting during 1982.Upland Geese These Upland Geese are swimming in an old bomb crater.Rufous_chest Dotterel juvenile We saw plenty of bird life, so those pictures here are just some examples. This juvenile Rufous-chested Dotterel seemed completely unperturbed by the humans.Rufous_chest Dotterel adult The adult one was a bit more wary.Magellanic Snipe I was fascinated by the Magellanic Snipe. They are extremely well camouflaged.Turkey Vulture If you look closely at the beak of this Turkey Vulture, you can make out a big opening. They hunt by using their sense of smell. I took this photo with a 250mm lens, so you can imagine how close the bird camGauchids Orchide!Dog Orchid We also spotted some of the local plant life. The outstanding discovery was these two orchids. The top one is a Gaudichaud’s Orchid, the bottom one a Dog Orchid (no idea where that name comes from). All in all, a fabulous excursion. If you want to see more, you can go to my husband’s blog: http://chinese-poems.com/blog.

Carcass Island Part 2 – Leopard Beach

Leopard BeachThe beach and the bay invited with their picturesque scenery, but we had not come here for the landscape or to have a swim.

Gentoos

 

 

 

We had come here because of them – Gentoo Penguins. Some of them really live up the hills.sandy beach

 

 

 

And others, in the company of Upland Geese, Kelp Geese and Magellanic Penguins, prefer the beach.marching

 

 

 

When a group of Magellanic Penguins really wants to go ahead, you better run. Even if you are a Gentoo Penguin.scratching

 

 

 

Then, you can give yourself a good old scratch. In perfect balance.porpoising

 

 

 

 

Or you hop into the water and porpoise a bit.

Falkland Islands – West Point Island Part 2

On our goarseway back from the colony at Devil’s Nose (see last post) the Sun came out and lit up the quite colourful landscape. The gorse was beautiful and home to some small singing birds.

 

Caracara

 

I went for the bigger ones, however. This is also due to the fact that I was using a 200mm lens, while my husband used the 400mm one.

There were Caracaras on the ground.

 

Turkey Vulture

 

And there were Turkey Vultures up in the air.

 

 

Kelp Geese

 

Families of Kelp Geese were looking for food on land, and we saw also flocks of Upland Geese swimming in the water.

 

 

 

Close to the water were also Oystercatchers, and in the water yet another highlight – Peale’s Dolphins.

 

 

Magellanic Penguin

The place is a popular with Magellanic Penguins. They dig burrows in the ground and use them for breeding.

It was an amazing first landing, and it exceeded all my expectations.

Falkland Islands – West Point Island Part 1

Falklands map

courtesy of Hurtigruten

We did three landings on the Falkland Islands: West Point, Carcass and Stanley.

I learned at ‘Fram University’ that the islands are geologically part of the Table Mountain Supergroup. Argentinian? British? Nonsense – they are African!

West Point IslandThe very first impression was somewhat bleak, but we soon spotted a handful of porpoising Magellanic penguins close to the ship. Hurray to our first penguins!

Since the 200-odd passengers were divided into 8 boatgroups, we had to wait a little bit until our #3 was called.

treesWe made it happily onto the shore near the island’s only settlement. There was an option of homemade cookies and tea, but whereas my hobbit stomach under normal circumstances would never decline such an offer, I wanted to see the cliff and the colony! And off we wandered, towards Devil’s Nose.

cliffI was wondering a bit why those people there were stopping and their cameras clicking away … so I approached and found myself in a state of shock.albatross Being eye-to-eye with a black-browed albatross with a wingspan of more than 2 meters makes you feel humble. And there were hundreds of them! And hundreds or possibly thousands of rockhopper penguins! I was utterly gobsmacked.colony1 colony2 colony3All of them courtshipping, mating or brooding. And how did those little penguins get up this steep cliff? Well, they hop, and they can hop their own body height in one go. I am going to say a lot more about penguins in later posts. For now I was captivated by the albatrosses – seeing them has been a childhood dream. me