We had fair weather on our way from South Georgia. The sea was calm enough to spend some minutes on deck when a pod of Fin Whales was spotted. Being a landlubber, I went into the cabin again fairly quickly. The next time I ventured out was to admire this tabular iceberg. We had reached the outer regions of the South Shetland Islands! It had not been possible to go to the South Orkney Islands because of ice conditions. I was fascinated by the fact that we learned this from data from the Sentinel-1 satellite, which I had heard about here: http://raumzeit-podcast.de. Elephant Island arose mighty out of the sea, slightly covered by clouds. I fancy the lenticular ones, and I’ve never seen so many before.
The island’s significance is best explained in the words we found on our daily information sheet on Fram:
A name steeped in legend, Elephant Island is an icon for “Antarctics” the way Cape Horn is for mariners. This imposing and desolate island was home to 22 marooned members of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s fabled 1914 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition for four and a half months while they awaited rescue. Led by one of Antarctica’s greatest unsung heroes John Robert Francis (known as Frank) Wild, the men barely survived living in horrible conditions beneath two overturned lifeboats. Named for Frank, Point Wild was originally known as Cape Wild and “Cape Bloody Wild” by the men stranded there. –
It is the triangular rock in the middle and the small strip of land to its left.
Point Wild is home to a small colony of hardy chinstrap penguins and a single bronze bust incongruously watching over them. The bust is of Captain Luis Pardo master of the Chilean Navy ship Yelcho that eventually rescued Shackleton’s men. Pardo’s was no mean feat; taking the underpowered Yelcho without permission he risked his command, his rank, and his very life on a mission where three other superior craft had failed.
We did not land, but sailed by slowly. The ever-changing antarctic weather meant there were some beautiful displays of light when we reached Cape Lookout, the southern tip of the island. Welcome to Antarctica!